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Further Afield's Journal
The Travel Nook
From Hurling to Hockey: A Shared Legacy of Sport
Gaelic Hurling in Ireland and Hockey in Canada, what are the similarities? To start with, they both began as a stick and ball sport. They have an unmeasured amount of local community support, and an enormous sense of pride if someone from their locality has been chosen for the professional team, that’s in Canada. The GAA, the Gaelic Athletic Association, in Ireland the players are all amateur, but the support and admiration are still the same.
Hats, flags, and jerseys to identify the different supporters, it’s a family day out, no segregation within the grounds just justified rivalry between each group of followers.
The historical connection dates back to the 1840s when the failure of the potato crop led to the Great Famine in Ireland between 1845 to 1852. The population of 8.2 million people in the census of 1841 had declined to just over 5 million. About 1 million died of hunger and disease, 1.3 million emigrated, mainly to the USA, Canada, Australia, Europe, Argentina and South America, but the biggest number went to the United Kingdom, Ireland’s nearest neighbour. Following the famine the population continued to decline, due to infant mortality, low immunity in children and adults and continued emigration. The 1961 census in the Republic of Ireland was 2.8 million. The census of 2022 was above 5 million, for the first time in 171 years. That includes a figure of 112,000 refugees.
People who emigrated to Canada at this time, particularly to Nova Scotia and Newfoundland introduced the sport of hurling to their work colleagues. Some of these were 2nd and 3rd generation Irish that had left the southern counties of Ireland working on the fishing boats across the Atlantic.
Hurling in Ireland is played on a grass surface, but the guys playing it through the Canadian winters had to change tact. Gone was the Hurley stick and the round ball (sliotar), as for the grass, this was buried underneath a blanket of snow. The supporters they decided to wait for warmer weather. The game was taken indoors, and played on an ice rink, the ball was replaced by a flat ‘puck’ which was fine for the hurlers, playing on a flat surface.
The first Ice hockey game played indoors was recorded in 1885, the rules were similar to field hockey. The actual game of ice hockey dates back to the Indigenous First Nations, in the 1600s the Mi’kmaq people who played with sticks and a puck carved from cherrywood. The modern hockey sticks are made from wood, fibreglass, or carbon fibre.
Hurling is the fastest game on grass, with continuous play at high speed, Ice hockey is fast-paced with physical style on ice. The rules are very different, hurlers can carry the ball for four steps, catching the ball and balancing it on the hurling stick is an art that has to be learned and admired. An opposing player can contest for the ball by playing it with the hurley stick or by shoulder charging an opponent side-to-side. Scoring in between the goal posts, underneath the crossbar for a goal or the value of three points while over it earns one point. The goalposts measures 6.5 metres apart and 2.5 meters high.
Ice hockey is played for 60 minutes consisting of three 20-minute periods with intermissions, the net is 4 feet high and 6 feet wide. Extra time is played if needed. The team consists of 20 players all togged out, the number of team players on the ice at any time are 6, 1 goalkeeper and 5 players, the players on the bench can be changed as often as the coach chooses.
In hurling there are 15 players on a team, a goalkeeper and 14 others with particular positions throughout the pitch, the game is played over 70 minutes, 35 minutes each half, with a 15 minutes interval. There are 5 substitutions allowed in normal time and if extra time is needed a further 3 substitutions can be made. Children start playing Gaelic football and hurling in the primary schools at the age of about 7 years. From there they continue to play with the local club in their area, if they show signs of skill and ability they may be chosen to play for their county, this will be the pinnacle of their career. The GAA, the Gaelic Athletic Association was founded in 1884, it’s completely an amateur sport, under the umbrella of the association are Gaelic football, hurling, camogie (women’s hurling), rounders, Gaelic handball, and Ladies’ Gaelic football.
Gaelic hurling started to be played in Canada in the 19th century, in King’s College School, Nova Scotia. ‘It’s a cold winter’s morning and the boys were having difficulty balancing the ball on their hurling sticks, the priest that was coaching them told them to play ground hurling. A simple instruction as it may sound but this was the birth of “hurling on ice”. Soldiers at Fort Edward in Nova Scotia started playing, soldiers are transferred to other barracks from time to time and as a result the game became popular throughout this network. The name of the game changed to ice hockey and eventually became Canada’s national sport.
The Montreal Canadian Hockey team have Irish historical links. In 1899, and 1900 they won the Stanley Cup both years, under the name ‘The Montreal Shamrocks’, from 1886 to 1924. Toronto’s beloved Maple Leafs came into existence as the ‘The Toronto St Patrick’s’ from 1919 to 1927, this fact is not forgotten when on the 17th March St Patrick’s Day, the Maple Leafs wear a St Patrick’s jersey to join in the celebrations.
Hurling and camogie, the ladies’ equivalent of the sport, were recognized as an Irish identity by UNESCO in 2018 in sport, and in music the Celtic harp and the Uilleann pipes (bagpipes) got the recognition.
A saying in Ireland for hurling that goes, “There’s no such thing as a bad game of hurling, it’s just that some are better than others”.
IRELAND HOTELS WITH A STORY TO TELL
We take pride in hand-selecting the finest hotels across Ireland, ensuring each property offers a unique blend of charm, luxury, and authentic Irish hospitality.
www.furtherafieldtravel.ca/gems-ireland-signature-tour
The Grand Central Hotel in the heart of the Belfast city. This is one of the city’s newest hotels, opened in 2018, a former Grand Central Hotel had been built in 1893 by John Robb. It changed hands in 1927, when John Grant of the whisky distillery company took it over. They remained in business until the Troubles in Northern Ireland lead to their demise. The attraction of tourism to this area of Ireland has seen an expansion in the number of hotels that have opened in the last 30 years.
The Seahorse is the symbol of Belfast’s maritime history and has become a feature of the Grand Central hotel. The hotel is on 23 floors with 300 bedrooms, cafes, restaurants, regular bars, the Seahorse restaurant and observation lounge is on the top floor. In mythology the Celts believed that the Seahorse were Sea Gods. Visitors to the Belfast City Hall will be enthralled by the use of Seahorses, on lampposts, bins, carpets, and stained glass windows. Queens University has a Seahorse on their Coat of arms. At Belfast Harbour there’s a statue of The Seahorse welcoming visitors to the city and hopefully has the potential of unifying the city’s people.
The city has a population of 350,000 it’s easy to manoeuvre around and see the city centre sites on foot. The City Hall is just across the street, a beautiful building with many historical facts about the city, the Cathedral quarters, the Titanic Visitors Centre, bars, restaurants, the Victoria Shopping Centre, and the transportation facilities, of buses, trains, and taxis are all centrally located.
The shipbuilding history dates back 300 years. The sheltered harbour was what attracted merchants and seafarers to establish the many industries here. At one stage Belfast was the largest city in Ireland. Trade with North America and the West Indies saw its expansion escalated dramatically, shipbuilding gave way to demand for lumber, glass, iron and steel, rope making, furniture, carpets, etc., the distilleries gave employment both in the workplace and in farming for the growing of barley. There was Gallagher cigarette factories had two ships going across the Atlantic, taking goods from Europe to the States and tobacco, sugar, and rum back to Belfast. The linen industry was the backbone of Belfast and indeed Ireland in the 19th and 20th centuries, there was a dramatic decline for linen after WWII. The city had the nickname ‘Linenopolis’ or the linen capital of the world.
Harvey’s Point in Co. Donegal has been voted the top hotel in Ireland for five consecutive years. Driving along a relatively major road we turn off, to a remote and isolated rural road. As if in a wilderness the silhouette of water twinkles through the hedgerows of trees, a crocheted like curtain reveals this Alice in Wonderland hotel, nestled by the shoreline of Lough Eske, and shadowed by the Blue Stack Mountains.
There’s a story of love and romance attached to this hotel. In 1983 Jody Gysling from Switzerland arrived Ireland, wishing to escape from the hassle of life there. He travelled through Ireland and found his dream paradise in Donegal, although there were some who classed the cottage and the few fields that surrounded it as a swamp. Not to be deterred Jody stated to work towards his goal and he opened a bed and breakfast. His brother Mark joined him as a chef and in 1989 they had expanded the premises to a small hotel with twenty bedrooms and catering facilities. Deirdre McGlone, a local girl joined the staff and here’s where the romantic twist in the story begins. Love conquerors everything, Mark and Deirdre began to see more of each other outside of working hours. The hotel was thriving and expanding, the couple get married in 1996.
Today the hotel has 88 suits and 13 cabin style rooms, an amazing ballroom suitable for weddings, cabaret performances, and conference meetings. This hotel has grown to be a destination venue with an international reputation. The town of Donegal is six kilometres away, it has that village feel to it, with family-owned shops, bars with Irish music, songs, and dancing. Banks, Real Estate offices, commercial premises, schools and churches. The quality of life is entwined with the remoteness of the county. Looking at the map of Ireland, Donegal is the northernmost county in the island of Ireland, yet Northern Ireland is part of the United Kingdom.
The mountains, peat bogs, the coastal areas with fishing ports and their fantastic fleet of trawlers and ships are what makes this county so attractive.
The Westport Plaza hotel, Co. Mayo.
This hotel is located in the centre of the town of Westport, a town that is associated with Westport House and Estate. It was built to a specific plan designed by the architect James Wyatt. The Carrowbeg river is its central point, mature trees and hanging baskets of flowers breathing life into the town, several streets branch out from here each with colourful shop fronts some exhibiting their wares to attract customers. Bars, restaurants, banks, commercial premises, an undertaker, churches, schools, hotels and the statues of various people who passed through or lived here. Even Saint Patrick is remembered, and so he should be with Croagh Patrick, the pilgrimage mountain standing majestically at 470 meters outside the town, Patrick is reputed to have bone Christ’s purgatory (40 days fasting) on this mountain.
The hotel is a beautiful place, situated close to the river and all the attractions that’s on offer. The Green-way that has recently been opened, gives visitors access to walks, biking, or hiking, out of the town for about 20 kilometres as far as Achill island.
Westport House has a history dating back to the 1500s and Grace O’Malley, the Pirate Queen. The Marquess of Sligo is the Peerage held currently by Sebastian Ulick Brown, the 12th Marquess of Sligo. The Brown’s were direct descendants of the Pirate Queen. The house is open to the public throughout the year.
The Glenlo Abbey Hotel, Co. Galway.
Here three kilometres west of Galway city lies the most luxurious five-star hotel’s one can imagine. It’s built on a 138 acre estate and that dates back to 1740s, it was built by the Ffrenches, one of the fourteen merchant families that were known as the famous Tribes of Galway, they were of Anglo-Norman origin dating back to the 1200s. The building was supposed to have been as a church, but was never completed or concreted.
Through the centuries there were several owners of the property, due to wars, evictions, shortages of money, inheritance etc., it was gambled, forfeited, and exploited forgery. The Palmers owned it from 1897 until 1980. The Burke family took over the estate in 1980 and with care and attention they have transformed it into a Five-star hotel with over 150 rooms and bungalows, four restaurants, three bars, spas, indoor and outdoor heated pools, a golf course, the award winning Orient Express Pullman Carriages Restaurant, and there’s access to Lough Corrib.
Galway is a university city with that bohemian lifestyle that’s presented through art, music, pageants, and festivals. Lynch’s castle is in the city centre, Saint Nicholas Cathedral dating from 1320 is still in use today, the old walls are incorporated into the shopping arcade’s and some of the bars. Buskers, the street entertainers are also a joy as you move down the streets. Eyre square has always an air of anticipation about it, walking down to the river you end up at the Spanish Arch where maritime trading was done, the date over the entrance to the city arch is 1494.
The Lake Hotel, Killarney, Co. Kerry.
The Huggard family have been in the hospitality business for three generations throughout Ireland, and the Lake Hotel is the grandest location you’ll stay at. Nestled on the banks of Lough Leane with the MacGillycuddy Reeks mountains stretching for miles is a joy to witness in the morning or evening. Looking out from your bedroom windows watch the herd of deer grazing on the lawns. Take a stroll down to the ruin of McCarthy’s castle. After dinner have a nightcap in the hotel bar and enjoy the music being played by local artists. The entrance to the Killarney National Park is beside the hotel, 26,000 acres of woodlands, lakes, mountains, farmland, and Muckross house. Turk mountain has some beautiful trails for climbing and hiking.
The old Franciscan Abbey that dates back to the 1450s, is a 20-minute walk away, a massive Yew tree is growing in the middle of the ruins. Yew tree and spiritually is of great importance in Irish culture, it’s associated with death and rebirth. Both Druids and Christians revered this sacred tree, it was a symbol of immortality and an omen of doom. In times past wine barrels were made from yew staves, and was referred to as the ‘Coffin of the Vine’. The branches of the yew are carried on Palm Sunday, (palm trees don’t grow in Ireland or Great Britain). When a grave is dug in Ireland, we place yew branches into the side of the grave about six inches from the top to camouflage the opening, as the coffin is lowered down it seems to disappear through the branches. The tree is extremely toxic and so livestock will not graze there, as if protecting the sacred ground.
The Lake Hotel is at the end of the journey around the Ring of Kerry when you’re travelling by coach, if you’re in a car you’re free to travel both ways. In the town of Killarney there’s a great amount of activities to choose from, rent a bike, take a boat trip on the lakes, go horseback riding, or take a ride on a pony and trap through the National Park, attend an Irish night with music and dance, go golfing, fishing, shopping or maybe just relax.
The Lyrath Hotel, Co. Kilkenny.
This Manor Hotel, certainly didn’t begin its existence as a hospitality venue. In the 1660s this estate was incorporated into the vast estates that were the properties of the Duke of Ormond. Butler was the family name, with the new title, came Kilkenny Castle and thousands of acres of land including the Lyrath estate. Through the years various tenants farmed the estate.
The Manor House that dates back to the 17th century is part of the Lyrath Hotel. The house and 170 acres estate was purchased in 2003 by Xavier McAuliffe. The house has been developed into the luxurious five-star facility that’s here today. The furniture and paintings that are part of the experience within the building are a delight to behold.
The city of Kilkenny has a lot to offer visitors, the castle is open to the public throughout the year. Take a visit to the galleries, museums, wonderful shopping stores, restaurants, and the bars, one in particular is Kyteler’s Inn; said to be haunted so be warned. The city is also ideally located for visiting local destinations such as Waterford Crystal, and the Rock of Cashel.
Carton House Hotel, Maynooth, Co. Kildare.
This hotel is situated on 1,100 acres of a walled estate. The property was the seat of the Fitzgerald family that dates back in history to the Anglo-Norman’s that arrived in Ireland in the late 1100s. They received the title the Earls of Kildare in 1315, and were one of the most influential families in Irish history for over seven centuries. The present house was built in 1739.
In the mid-20th Century it was operated as a 300 cows dairy herd and a cereal growing farm until the 1980s. The company that had purchased it, decided that for their investment there would be a more lucrative return in the agritourism business. The grasslands were converted into two championship golf courses laid out by Mark O’Meara and Colm Montgomery. The Irish Open has been held here on numerous occasions and the Women’s Irish Open was held in 2024 and again in 2025.
The house got a total revamp, with some extensions, the dining rooms are incredible, the lobby is an open plan space incorporating the reception area, a bar, a foyer for guests to relax with a coffee or drink. The complex also has a conference centre, meeting rooms, and presentations rooms, something to suit all demands.
The town of Maynooth is within walking distance or is a 6/7 minute drive. It’s a university town with 16,000 students, the town has been transformed into a modern location with plenty of employment that educational centres bring to areas. The only Catholic Seminary in Ireland is here in Maynooth, it was built in 1795. People can take a tour of the property including the beautiful St. Patrick’s church. The Fitzgerald Castle in the middle of the town is also open to the public.
Guests that stayed in Carton House before it was a hotel were. Queen Victoria on two occasions, Prince Rainier and Princess Grace of Monaco, Peter Sellers, Marianne Faithful for 7 years in the 1990s, Julie Andrews and her husband director Blake Edward’s, while filming ‘Darling Lili’, for about 6 months.
Carton House Hotel is now Ireland’s first Fairmont resort, lavish marble bathrooms, Egyptian sheets on King-size beds, an open fireplace, and lush gardens and lawns stretching out you to savour the beauty and peacefulness of Carton House Hotel.
Saint Patricks Day
The 17th March is the feast day of St. Patrick, the Patron saint of Ireland. It’s celebrated all over the world wherever an Irish person has ever set foot. Some would have had no choice in the destination they ended up in.
In the 1600 and 1700s deportation out of Ireland during the white slave trade had males and females sent to Barbados, Montserrat which is known as the ‘Emerald Isle of the Caribbean’, Jamaica, the British West Indies, and the Leeward Islands. With British occupation in Ireland, deportation for lawlessness was also an answer to populating these islands that were under British occupation. Celebrating St. Patrick’s Day in such places is a wonderful festival of colour and pageantry. The remarkable thing is that only 2% of the population have ever seen Ireland. Saint Patrick himself would feel right at home in any of these areas, “sure didn’t I start off as a slave ‘me self’ back in Ireland, sure of course you knew that, didn’t you”.
Australia was another penal colony during the early 1800s. Some of those felons were indentured slaves, these were immigrants that bartered their trip with a guarantee to work for a certain length of time. Others were criminals who had to spend years of hard labour working there.
Once upon a time it was a disgrace to be considered a relation of a deportee, that had ended up in Australia, nowadays there are those that consider it as a badge of honour. Songs of the ‘Wild Colonial Boy’ and films like ‘Ned Kelly’ are sung to rapturous applause. Watch the all day long celebrations.
The largest parade is in Dublin City with a four-day festival for the occasion. Parades in every city, town, and village, marching bands, from all over Europe, North America and Canada, all dressed up in the finest of green. There are sporting events to go to i.e rugby, football, hurling, horse racing, and athletics.
The Roman Empire had arrived in what we now call England and Wales in the first century. They were repelled from the northern part (Scotland) by the Pagan Picts. The Romans never got to Ireland. One or two must have been there because they referred to the place as Hibernia, the Land of eternal Winter.
The Irish pagans were notorious for raiding Wales and England, plundering what goods they found and carrying off slaves. In the fifth century a raid that happened was to change the history of Ireland and indeed Europe for ever. A boy of about sixteen was on board one of the vessels. His name was Patrick. With the Romans being in England for over 400 years Christianity had indeed an impression on some of the people. Patrick’s mother Conchessa, was a Christian and could read and write. Patrick had learned from her, in his writings in later life he did confess that he wished that he had learned more.
During the years that Patrick had been in slavery in Ireland a metamorphic change had occurred in England. A barbarian force from Northern Europe had attacked the Holy Roman Empire leaving their troops scattered and vulnerable. The Legions were called back to Rome from England. As a result England was virtually destroyed, gone were villas, towns were laid bare and went into decline. Hadrians Wall that had been built by the Romans to prevent the attacks by the Picts was now left unattended.
Patrick returned to England and was educated by his family and trained for the priesthood. He then returned to Ireland and started to preach Christianity to a Pagan people. He was openly accepted by Loegaire, the King of Tara after Patrick forced the Royal Druid to be subdued by him. On baptizing the King, Patrick went overboard with the ceremony, closing his eyes he lifted his crozier and with reasonable force and grace he drove the crozier through the King’s foot. After, Patrick not missing a beat when he realized the tragedy, invited the King to join him in the river, limping forward and completely naked, the King was reverently and truly baptized. However the crowd that had gathered to be part of this celebration of conversion, soon started to dwindle on witnessing the King’s gruesome subjugation to Christianity. If this was part of the ritual it certainly wasn’t for them. The King not only encouraged Patrick to continue his preaching and conversions but sent a group of young able-bodied men to protect him on his travels.
What was the attraction of the Christianity? Education, learning to read and write meant that now contracts could be drawn up, if it’s in writing then it’s binding.
Over the centuries monasteries were established throughout Ireland. Each one had a scriptorium where scribes copied and wrote manuscripts. St Columba or Colmcille is credited with spreading Christianity to the Island of Iona in Scotland, and then onto what is now mainland Britain. The city of St Andrews became the ecclesiastical capital of Scotland. From there the Church’s teachings spread to France, Spain, Hungary, Serbia, Italy and much of Eastern Europe.
For Saint Patrick’s Day join in the celebrations, wherever you may be, with music, songs, dancing, storytelling and parades. Let the woes of the world, the financial strains or worries of living, the turmoil and uncertainty of tomorrow be eliminated from our minds for this day.
“Yesterday is history,
Tomorrow is a mystery,
But today is a gift.
That’s why it’s called the present”.
Happy Saint Patrick’s Day to you all.
Egypt, The Land of Pharaohs, Pyramids, and the Nile
The cradle of civilization, a nation that exists through the ‘Gift of the Nile’. Egypt is over 1 million square kilometres, that’s about the size of Texas and New Mexico combined. The country is located in North Africa and Western Asia. It’s bordered by Libya to the west, Israel and Palestine to the east, and Sudan to the south, with the northern part forming the shore of the Mediterranean Sea which is linked to the Red Sea by the Suez Canal.
Egypt is almost 70% desert, the Nile has been its lifeline for thousands of years, the natural resources of the river basin is irrigated agriculture, the main crops are wheat, rice, maize, cotton, and a great variety of vegetables and fruits. Cattle, sheep, and goats are reared. Camels are ever present and a well-known part of the Egyptian landscape, they have been used for transportation and agriculture for centuries, now the tourism business has harnessed them for camel rides and camel racing. Fishing and fish farming along the Nile and the Mediterranean coast has been a very lucrative industry for centuries. The Papyrus reeds along the Nile, these symbolize life and eternity, as Egyptian afterlife was believed to be a field of reeds, they are associated with maintaining social order and harmony in Egypt.
Cairo the capital city of Egypt, is a thriving city that is one of the oldest Islamic cities in the world, with stunning architecture ‘the City of a Thousand Minarets’ as it’s known. Here you encounter old and new, ancient buildings and magnificent monuments incorporated with towering skyscrapers. Visit the Abdeen Presidential Palace, the archaeological design is a a concutation of Italian, French, Turkish, and Oriental, with some unique paintings. A trip to the Great Pyramid of Giza is spellbinding, it’s one of the Seven Wonders of the World left intact.
Leaving Cairo and flying to the city of Luxor we embark on an 8-day river cruise of the Nile. Visit the Tomb of Queen Nefertari in the Valleys of the Kings and Queens. See the many beautiful Temples in the cities of Luxor and Karnak, and walk the ‘Avenue of the Sphinxes’, each one is carved from a single mass of limestone.
The Tomb of Tutankhamun was discovered in 1922. This was one of the most remarkable discoveries in history. The ancient Pharaoh, King Tut, or the Boy King, as he’s lovingly referred to, was only 9 years old when he became King. He died suddenly at the age of 18 years, in 1324 BC. When the Tomb was discovered there were a number of coffins in there, he was buried within three coffins, plus 5,000 priceless treasures. Fortunately the tomb had not been desecrated to the extent that many of the others in the Valley of the Kings and Queens had been.
The Aswan High Dam on the Nile River was constructed from 1960 to 1970. It was a massive project for that time. The dam captures floodwater during the rainy season and releases it during droughts. This has been a major contributor to the Nile basin, Hydroelectric Power Stations have been constructed, irrigation facilities, and reservoirs for drinking water.
The history of Egypt is intriguing. From its establishment through its civilization, to the pharaohs and their loss of power to the Romans and then to the Arabs, the study gives one an appetite to learn more and what better way to do that than by visiting and enjoying the location.
The Egyptian rulers were the Pharaohs who were the imperial power, building pyramids, temples, sphinxes, and other ancient monuments. The country is considered a key part of Arab culture. The last Pharaoh was Cleopatra VII, she captivated the heart of Julius Caesar the renowned dictator of the Roman Empire, at the age of 20 she seduced Caesar who was 52 years old at the time, and bore him a son, Caesarion or ‘little Caesar’. After Caesar’s assassination, Cleopatra was in need of a leader to rule Egypt with her, so she enticed Mark Anthony (Caesar’s comrade in wars) to take control of Egypt. Caesarion was declared King of Kings. The alliance of Cleopatra and Mark Anthony was ended by the civil war in Egypt with Octavian (Julius Caesar’s nephew) defeating Cleopatra the last of the Pharaohs and Mark Anthony at Actium in Greece. Mark Anthony and Cleopatra died in each other’s arms as the battle and their lives ended. Egypt became a Roman province until 641, then it came under Arab Islamic rule.
Land tours or cruising in Egypt have a phenomenal attraction worldwide. If you’re looking for variety there’s a treasure trove of choices. The Western Desert is an extension of the Sahara Desert that stretches across Egypt and Libya, it’s a great vacation for those interested in geological exploration of sand dunes, rock formations, canyons, oasis and the nomadic settlements that are scattered throughout the fringes of the desert. Rock formations are a photographer’s dream.
Adventure tourism like desert safaris or camping under the stars is a great attraction.
Come and join us on a tour that offers everything and something else.
Contact Further Afield Travel and Tours.
Vietnam & Cambodia
These two countries can be incorporated into a combined tour, but for the purpose of promotion we have to introduce them as individuals. Situated in South East Asia they share thousands of miles of a border. They have experienced a troubled history for decades.
Vietnam is a full communist state since 1975, North Vietnam had already been since 1954. It has a population of 100 million people, and its capital is Hanoi. Foreign investment is allowed and encouraged into the country. So there’s State capitalism and private capitalism, the state shares capital with capitalists to develop the country further. Cambodia is officially a constitutional monarchy and a multi-party state, the Cambodia People’s Party dominates the political system. They have a population of 17 million.
While visiting Vietnam, experience the cultural beliefs, values, and traditions. The elements of metal, wood, water, fire, and earth influence their way of living. When visiting the Temples and Pagodas witness the symbols that are worshipped in paintings, statues, carpets, and altars. The Dragon symbolizes power, nobility, and immortality of the Vietnamese Emperor, the Phoenix represents the Empress. The next is the Turtle symbolizing longevity, strength, and intelligence. Finally the Unicorn is the symbol of peace, mercy, and good fortune. The religious Temples or Pagodas are mainly worshiping Buddhism. There are over 20,000 such Temples to be found throughout the country with scores of monks to be seen, ranging in age from young boys, teenagers, and men. Walking devoutly and reverently, dressed in orange robes, heads shaven, and through the day singing and chanting, it’s just remarkable.
The Temple of Literature in Hanoi dates back to 1070 and was built to honour the Chinese philosopher and teacher, Confucius, whose belief was that people and society benefit from a moral outlook and lifelong learning. His Golden Rule was, “What you do not wish for yourself, do not do to others”, and also “A good education prevents evil”.
Hanoi has a multiplicity of attractions, a city centre lake gives you the opportunity to people watch as you enjoy a snack in the afternoon. Take a Rickshaw ride through the streets, browse the markets and enjoy the banter as you strike a deal for a souvenir, ‘did I really get a bargain’? Later in the evening enjoy a Puppet Show at one of the many theatres.
When in Vietnam one cannot but remember their history, that occupied our evening news in the 1960s and 70s. Taking a tour to the Hanoi Hilton Prison shows the horror that the POW’s went through. These were the camps where captured American soldiers were held, the camps were nicknamed such as the “Heartbreak Hotel” “Little Vegas” and “New Guy Village”.
Halong Bay, could be placed in the wonder of the world category. Taking a bus trip from Hanoi through the beautiful countryside and arriving at this unique paradise. Boarding a boat cruise that takes you out to the caves and around the islands, of which there are over 2,000. The cave system was discovered by a French explorer in 1901 and has been developed into a tourist attraction with visitors from around the world coming to see the remarkable stalactites and stalagmites, with magnificent columns some twenty feet high. Geological and archaeological studies have shown that millions of years have passed since some enormous tectonic movement occurred to cause this cavity in the hills along the coast line. Legends and folklore have a home in Halong Bay, it’s said that a reigning monarch centuries ago saw an enormous cloud descending on the bay, declaring it as a descending dragon the bay has retained its name ever since, Halong Bay.
In the Gulf of Tonkin, the Sung Sot Cave or Surprise Cave is well named, imagine the feeling of the person that first discovered this. The cave is 10 meters high at some points and 500 meters in length. It’s estimated that 2 million people come to visit the caves and islands each year, Sung Sot Cave is the most popular. While exploring the different facets and features of the place, allow your mind to wander and speculate on the reflections that appear on the floor or ceiling. What is it saying to you? The wonderful collection of colours to be witnessed within the caves can be attributed to the limestone qualities of the rocks. Spending the night on board the ship in the bay, with the sea stacks of islands reflecting on the water, gives you that loving shiver of delight that you have experienced this moment.
Departing the ship to board the bus in the morning that will take you to the next leg of your vacation. Flying from Hanoi Airport to Siem Reap in Cambodia. The Khmer empire that ruled Cambodia had a passion for building Temples in the 12th, 13th, and 14th centuries, some more lavish than others in size and architectural design. Through the ages most of these went into decline and were abandoned, visitors today can find how forests and vegetation have taken over these buildings. Ta Prohm where ‘Tomb Raider’ was filmed has the most spectacular forest with mature trees that have intertwined their growth into the walls of the ruins or straddled buildings with their roots struggling to survive.
An early morning call is appreciated when you arrive at Angkor Wat, ‘The Kingdom of Wonder’ is a splendid Temple dedicated to the Hindu God, Vishnu. It’s the largest religious monument in the world and a masterpiece of Khmer architecture. It’s now a Buddhist temple. When visiting the shrine you will get an opportunity to see the monks and nuns worshipping and praying at the alters or have a chance to interact with them. The monks range in age from young boys to teenagers maturing into adulthood and old men. Some leave these monasteries after being educated, which they’re entitled to do, joining the workforce, getting married or continuing to teach in the Department of Education schools. The monastery cannot accommodate these monks and nuns so they get transport to this temple.
The cruise on the Mekong River begins with embarkation in the city of Kampong Chan. This river is a major trade route in Southeast Asia, having risen in Tibet it flows through China, Laos, Thailand, Cambodia, and Vietnam and enters the South China Sea at the Mekong Delta, having flowed over 5,000 kilometres of terrain.
The activities on and off the ship are varied. Walking through villages that have ‘stilted’ houses which have lasted more than 100 years, to protect them from the flood waters. The Cambodian people are so friendly, you must learn to say Hello in Khmer to them, and don’t be offended when they ask ‘How old are you’, it’s a fascination with them. Visit the loom-weaving houses and watch how the silkworms are woven into traditional scarves. Stop in at one of the local junior schools where the children will be delighted to show their expertise in speaking English.
Sailing to the capital city Phnom Penh, there’s a choice of visits on offer from the Royal Palace, the Central Market, and the areas associated with the atrocities that occurred during the Khmer Rouge regime and Pol Pot. The orientation tour of the city by the Tuk Tuk transportation system is wonderful, a four person trailer hooked up to a motorbike that takes you through the main and side streets, through the markets, city parks with stops along the way for photographs.
One of the highlights of your trip is a 10-minute ride on a Cambodian limousine. After a short transfer from the ship to the village of Kampong Tralach, you will have the authentic experience of an oxcart ride. These animals have been domesticated and have been used on farms to plough, till and sow from time immemorial. Two oxen are yoked up to a cart with two iron wheels that’s capable of carrying two passengers and a driver. This journey ends at the entrance to a beautiful monastery where after a walk in the gardens you will be treated to a Buddhist blessing ceremony.
As the cruise continues down the Mekong River and sails from Cambodia into Vietnam waters, there’s a border crossing where passport control checks are done. It’s an experience in itself to watch how this happens in the middle of the river. This is time consuming but the cruise management have items in place to pass the time.
As the ship enters Vietnamese waters tenders take you to see hidden gems on the tributaries of the Mekong, houses, small markets, workshops, and restaurants. Docking later at Ho Chi Minh City, formerly Saigon, we see the famous Presidential Palace, and the War Museum.
Vietnam has been no stranger to wars. France had colonized the country in 1887 to 1954 apart from WWII when Japan occupied it. France returned again until 1954. They had little or no success and left in 1956. Communism had spread to North Vietnam at this stage and divided the country. The US had military advisors in Vietnam since the early 1950s. With the spread of communism in Southeast Asia and Eastern Europe after WWII there was the expectation that there might be a domino effect in these regions. The Berlin Wall had been erected in 1961. American troops were sent into Vietnam in 1965 to support South Vietnam from the invading forces from the North. They were there until 1975 when they were forced to withdraw after the fall of Saigon.
There’s a visit to the tunnels of Cu Chi, an area about 2 hours drive from Saigon. These tunnels were used prior to WWII to store food supplies that were being hidden from colonial landlords. When war broke out in 1965 they were extended and developed as military bases. Some of them are three levels below ground, air shafts set at 45° angles protect those underneath, escape exits camouflaged in the jungle, cooking kitchens with smoke extraction vents have to be admired. I had the opportunity to enter one of these tunnels and I found it a maze within a maze.
For more information give Further Afield Travel and Tours a call.