Galapagos Islands - one of the three top-ranked destinations in the world, according to Lonely Planet!
Situated in the Pacific Ocean some 1,000 km from the South American continent, these 19 islands and the surrounding marine reserve have been called a unique “living museum and showcase of evolution’. Located at the confluence of three ocean currents, the Galapagos are a ‘melting pot’ of marine species.
The Galapagos Islands are the result of volcanic activity that occurred approximately 5 million years ago. As these young islands were cooling off some two million years later, certain species gradually began to arrive to the archipelago. It is speculated that these newcomers arrived in the Galapagos on large rafts of vegetation that broke off from the shores of Central and South America. Upon arriving in the archipelago, these species had to rapidly adapt to a radically new environment. These adaptations led these species to evolve in an entirely new way, completely separate from their continental relatives.
Ongoing seismic and volcanic activity reflects the processes that formed the islands. These processes, together with the extreme isolation of the islands, let to the development of unusual animal life - such as the land iguana, the giant tortoise and the many types of finch - that inspired Charles Darwin’s theory of evolution by natural selection following his visits in 1835. The Islands became a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1978 and World Biosphere Reserve in 1985. The only populated islands are Santa Cruz, San Cristobel, Isabella and Floreana as well the small island of Baltra on which the airport is located.
Consequently, numerous species in the Galapagos are so unique that they are now classified as endemic (i.e. not found anywhere else in the world) species.
The first known person to set foot on the Galapagos Islands was Tomas de Berlanga, a Spanish bishop. His discovery of the Galapagos Islands was entirely accidental and occurred in 1535 as he navigating towards the coast of Peru and Central America on an apostolic mission. His journey there experienced an unexpected detour when unusual winds and the Panama current pushed his ship towards the Galapagos, which were teeming with spectacular and eccentric creatures. “the birds here are so silly.” he wrote to Charles V (the King of Spain), “they know not how to flee.”Centuries later, in 1832 Ecuador took possession of the archipelago and gave the islands their official name.
A lifetime experience, and all you need to do to “prepare” for them is simply brace yourself for the amazing. With highly unusual wildlife and otherworldly landscapes that aren’t found anywhere else on Earth.
The Galapagos Islands are blessed with pleasant climatic conditions throughout every season, consequently there isn’t any “best” moment to visit the precious islands. The best time may depend on what you hope to see and do. There are basically two distinct seasons which are hot and dry. Hot Season (January through May) which has higher precipitation and warmer temperatures. Lush vegetation extending into the mostly arid highlands, bright sunshine with daily intermittent rainfall, vibrant colours and sultry heat. Dry Season (June through November) sees very active marine life due to increased food supply, silver skies and very comfortable weather conditions. The two transitional periods occur as seasons overlap. These are November through January and May through July. These are very popular times to visit the Galapagos.
On land, the best time to see wildlife is arguably during the hot season. Marine and land iguanas are at their most colourful or Galapagos giant tortoise eggs hatching over at the breeding centres (on Santa Cruz and/or San Cristobal Islands). At sea, the dry season brings with it a significant increase in marine activity. Waters tend to be cooler but whether snorkelling or diving, wetsuits allow you more time underwater. Birds tend to enjoy this time of year, too as species like the American flamingo can be seen initiating elegant mating rituals.
Hiking is a must in the Galapagos. There is so much to explore and no matter which island you visit, walking along the coast or up into the highlands puts you in the middle of everything. The end of the hot season (April and May) sees an increase in the number of visitors to the Galapagos. Vegetation becomes lush and temperatures cool slightly. Meanwhile, dry season months like September and October mean fewer tourists.
Birdwatching is impossible to avoid whether on land or at sea. One thing to consider is that some of the Big 15 iconic species of the Galapagos can only be found on specific islands of the archipelago. Exploring the Galapagos on a cruise ship is an ideal way to reach some of the most remote spots.
Snorkelling offers you a view of life just beneath the surface of the ocean. December, January and February are ideal for spending more time underwater and there is plenty to see. If you don’t mind the slightly cooler temperatures, July and August are your window for viewing a frenzy of marine activity.
Other activities such as mountain biking, paddle boarding and kayaking give you the chance to cover a lot of ground or coastline that might otherwise take you a little longer to explore. These activities can be enjoyed year round.
Getting to the Galapagos: Flights to the Galapagos Islands depart from the mainland Ecuador only in the mornings, so you must arrive in Ecuador the day prior. There are two airports which received flights from mainland Ecuador, but no international flights to Galapagos. The most frequently used airport is at Baltra, across a narrow strait from Santa Cruz, the other at Puerto Baquerizo Moreno, on San Cristobal. The two islands are 96 km apart and on most days there are local flights in light aircraft between them. All flights originate in Quito.
Top Islands
Bartolome Island: A rather small island teeming with fantastic landscapes and wildlife, Bartolome has one of the most postcard-worthy views in the archipelago. Up at its viewpoint, visitors are awarded with panoramic views of the island's concave peninsula, Pinnacle Rock, and it's next door neighbor - Santiago Island. A wooden staircase allows guests to gradually ascend to said viewpoint. This small island offers plenty of exciting activities, too, such as snorkeling! Wildlife highlights: As a young island, only pioneer species have been able to thrive here, the most iconic of which is the Galapagos penguin. Visitor Sites: Bartolome Viewpoint, Bartolome Beach and Pinnacle Rock
Chinese Hat (aka. Somrero chino) Less than a quarter of a square kilometre in size, the tiny island of Chinese Hat gets its name from its appearance. Here, visitors get to follow the trail around the cover, possibly catching a glimpse of American oystercatchers in action, along with marine iguanas, lava lizards and Sally Lightfoot crabs. Starting from a present-shaped and white sandy beach, this 400-metre long trail provides some wonderful landscapes to view. There is also good swimming amidst whitecap reef sharks and tropical fish.
Espanola Island: Located in the southeastern corner of the archipelago, Espanola island offers visitors an amazing cliff-side landscape and an overwhelming diversity of wildlife. Wildlife highlights: Galapagos albatrosses (this is the only island where you can spot them!), sea lions, lava lizards, Nazca boobies, blue-footed boobies, colourful marine iguanas, Darwin’s finches and yellow warblers. Unique creatures: Home to the largest nestling colony of blue-footed bodies and the only island in Galapagos with a Waved Albatross colony (present from April to December), mockingbirds and lava lizard endemic to Espanol. Interesting geological formations such as the famous “blowhole.” Visitors sites: Punta suarez and Gardner Bay.
Fernandina Island: The most western and youngest of all the islands. The massive large-shield volcano is the home of continuous volcanic activity via fumaroles and seismic processes. From time to time an eruption may be witnessed too. Most recent eruption took place in April 2009. Wildlife highlights: densest colonies of marine iguanas, sea lions, nestling colony of flightless cormorants and penguins, Galapagos snakes, intertidal pools. Unique feature: Fernandina Island may be rates as one of the most pristine islands in the world, due to the absence of introduced mammals. Amazing recent black lava flows with evidence of both “pahoehoe” and “aa” lava, give you astonishing views of only sea-going lizard while feeding upon algae. Intertidal pools bloom with marine life. Visitor site: Punta Espinoza.
Floreana (Charles or Santa Maria). An island in the southern half of the Archipelago, dotted with parasitic cones, evidence of continuous and prolonged volcanic activity of a not-so-distant past. Wildlife highlights: Lagoon birds (stilts, whimbrels, ducks, egrets and flamingos), sea turtles and rays (seasonal), Galapagos flycatchers. Unique features: volcanic parasitic cones, greater flamingos, endemic Floreana mockingbird, endemic “hairy” Scalescia plan, flour beach, great snorkelling. The human history of the islands and post office barrel. Visitor Sites: Punta Cormorant, Post Office Bay, champion Islet, Baroness Cove.
Genovesa Island: The horseshoe-shaped island has a volcanic caldera whose collapsed, forming the Great Darwin Bay, surrounded by cliffs. Although no historical eruption are known from Genovesa, there are very young lava flows on the flanks of the volcano. The island is known as Bird Island, because of the large and varied bird colonies which nest here. Wildlife highlights: nestling colonies of Nazca boobies, red-footed boobies, noddy terns, shearwaters, tropicbirds, storm petrels and great frigate birds. Galapagos sea lions an dGalapagos fur seals. Unique features: the most seabird diversity: boobles, frigate birds, short-eared owl, etc. Interesting vegetation such as “spineless” pricey pear cactus from the genus Opuntia and “Palo Santo” forest. Visitor Sites: Darvin Bay, Prince Philip’s Steps.
Isabela Island: One of the archipelago’s western islands and the largest of all. It is made of six large shield volcanoes fused into one island (Ecuador, Wolf, Darwin, Alcedo, Sierra Negra, and Cerro Azul). The highest point in Galapagos is found at Wolf Volcano (1,707 m; 5,600 ft). Wildlife highlights: Galapagos penguins, flightless cormorants, sea turtles, marine iguanas, volcanic landscape. Visitor Sites: Punta Vicente Roca, Urbina Bay, Tagus Cove.
North Seymour: A small island but packed with interesting creatures and views, created from geological uplift, and covered with typical arid vegetation; mainly prickly pear cactus and “Palo Santo” trees. Wildlife highlights: Nestling colony of magnificent and great frigate birds, swallow-tailed gulls, blue-footed boobies. Breeding colonies of Galapagos sea lions and marine iguanas. Unique features: Land iguanas, white coral heads along the shore, endemic “Palo Santo” trees. Visitor site: One half of the walk is flat and easy walking along the beach, while the other half if racks and over boulders. Good traction footwear needed. Snorkelling is possible when conditions allow.
San Cristobal Island: One of the largest islands in the easternmost end of the archipelago. Puerto Baquerizo Moreno is a small town, and the capital of the Galapagos province. Its’ airport is one of the two that connect to the mainland. Wildlife highlights: Colony of Galapagos sea lions, Darwin’s finches, marine iguanas, lava lizards, giant tortoises. Unique features: San Cristobal mockingbird, San Cristobal lava lizard, coralline beaches, El junco (the only permanent fresh water lagoon in the Galapagos). Visitor sites: La Galapauera, Cerro Brujo, Punta Pitt, Tijeretas (Frigate Hill), Interpretation Centre.
Santa Cruz Islands: The second-largest island of the Galapagos group with all seven vegetation zones included across its expanse. The largest human population lives on this island, mainly in Puerto Ayora, the largest town in the archipelago. May urban features are found here: banks, ATM machines, souvenirs, art, restaurants and bars. Wildlife highlights: Darwin’s finches, giant tortoises, Galapagos mockingbirds, vermillion flycatchers, herons, egrets, ducks, stilts. Unique features: giant tortoise in the wild, giant tortoises at the Charles Darwin Research Station, vegetation of the highlands including the giant daisy tree of the Scales genus, a variety of nature-active options and physical activities (hiking, scuba diving, mountain biking, kayaking, etc.). Visitor Sites: Charles Darwin Research Station, The Highlands and the Giant tortoise reserve, Los Gemelos (Pit Craters), Cerro Dragon (Dragon Hill), Bahia Ballena (Whale Bay), Las Bachas beach.
Sanat Fe Island: Santa Fe is a small island located in the centre of the archipelago. Studies suggest that Sant Fe Island could be the oldest Galapagos volcano, there are sub-aerial rocks dating back 3.9 million years. The vegetation of the island is characterized by brush, palo santo trees, and stands of a large variety of the prickly pear cactus. Opuntia echoes. The visitor site is a wet landing located in beautiful Barrington Bay on the northeastern side of the island. Large numbers of sea lions are found on the beaches in the turquoise waters of the bay. Wildlife highlights: sea lion colony, Darwin’s finches, Santa Fe land iguana, giant Opuntia Cacti, Galapagos Hawks. Unique features: large Opuntia Cacti forest, home for the unique species of land iguana (Conolophus pablidus) in the world. It has one of the most beautiful bay, an ideal place for snorkelling.
Santiago Island:This former large shield volcano looks more like a mountain range with hills, valleys and plenty of parasitic cones. An Ecuadorian group settled here within the 1960s for a salt-mining related business. The island is now uninhabited and provides a great visitor site at Puerto Egas, which combines a visit along the rocky shoreline with time on its dark-coloured sandy beach, and at Sullivan Bay with its fascinating lava. Wildlife highlights: the most diverse shorebird activity occurs here; Galapagos fur seals, Galapagos sea lions, hawks, Darwin finches, mockingbirds and marine iguanas. Unique features: a rugged and well-eroded coastline made of tuff stone lies above a dark black lava flow. Such tuff stone was probably the reused of a gigantic phreatomagmatic explosion (abrupt contact of water and magma) that even included base surge. Within the actual coastline, the most incredible habitat will host intertidal life, next to Galapagos fur seals. Visitor Site: Sullivan Bay, Puerto Egas.