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Further Afield's Journal

South Africa, Victoria Falls, and Chobe National Park.

Location: 
Africa
Entry By: 
Joe F.

Taking a trip to South Africa will rate as one of your most memorable vacations. Beginning this experience is comparable to laying the foundation stone of a life’s dream extravaganza. 

Toronto to Amsterdam the Dutch capital, then onto Cape Town in South Africa where we begin with five nights in Cape Town city. 

 
Our days include outings to Table Mountain, the iconic landmark plateau of over 1,000 metres accessible by cable car, looking out on the Atlantic Ocean and Table Bay. South African wine is famous worldwide and a visit to the Stellenbosch region to gaze on the beautiful layout of the winery estates and taste its produce, encouraged by a titivation of chocolate on the palate is a splendid combination for the day. A stop at Boulders Beach to watch the penguins strutting in and out of the water, watching over their chicks with condescending respect for our presence. Visiting gardens, museums, galleries and aquariums. Taking a tour down to the Cape of Good Hope, so called after the Portuguese had managed to sail around it to the Indian Ocean. The Waterfront area of Cape Town has an abundance of restaurants, bars, cafes and stores to visit. Take a cruise on the bay or visit Robben Island. The island lies 45 minutes sailing off the coast of Cape Town, this was a purpose built prison which opened in 1961 to incarcerate political prisoners who protested against apartheid. It was also used for convicted criminals. The maximum security prison for political prisoners closed in 1991, and for criminals in 1995. This is where Nelson Mandela spent 18 years of a 27 years sentence, probably the best recognizable name throughout the world, Robben Island is now a visitors centre.
 
Nelson Mandela was a member of the ANC, (the African National Congress) a group that was formed after the introduction of an apartheid regime that was established by law in 1948 when the National Party was elected to government. These were Afrikaans, a minority white Nationalist Party who passed a series of laws in 1950 giving them the right to rule as a minority government over Blacks, Indians and Coloured. The country was segregated into racial groups. Millions were forcefully removed from their homes, restricted and confined within tribal homelands according to ethnicity and also denied the right to vote. The whites had the privilege of living in the towns and cities.
 
This system of apartheid was supported in many parts of the world because the ANC membership included the South African Communist Party. The ANC were forced underground and many of its members were in exile while others including Mandela were imprisoned. World attention to the system was crying out for change and sanctions against trading or investment with South Africa started to have a detrimental effect on the country. In the 1980s the president P.W. Botha who had been in power from 1978 to 1989 was forced to resign. F.W. de Clerk was elected president. He had met Mandela on a number of occasions and was anxious to work with him. Aware of the difficulties in the country, he took the drastic step of unbanning the ANC and releasing Nelson Mandela from his life imprisonment sentence. It was a brave step. Mandela had a huge impact on the country, he got the different factions that had fought against apartheid to come together, encouraging foreign investment into the nation, promoting education, construction, finance, technology development, and scientific research. Today South Africa is a beacon of light and hope for many people and nations. Nelson Mandela was elected president in 1994-1999 with F.W. de Clerk as vice president. He did not seek re-election in 1999, dying at the age of 95 years in 2013, his life was well spent. “What counts in life is not the mere fact that we have lived. It is what difference we have made to the lives of others”. It’s a privilege to witness a country that has experienced such hurt and hatred. Studying revolutions against oppression and injustice worldwide education has proven to be a powerful weapon. 
 
Departing Cape Town, a 2 hour and 30 minutes flight will take us to Hoedspruit airport, once a military airport, now a small destination point for local businesses and tourists. A half hour drive to Kapama Private Game Reserve lodge is our home for three nights. Set on 30,000 acres of land consisting of woodland, small lakes, scrubland, rivers and water holes for elephants and hippos to immerse themselves in. Our days start with a morning call at 5.30 am, it’s certainly worth it. Driving on these safaris through the wilderness spotting giraffes picking the leaves off the tops of trees or watching elephants pushing trees over for their calves to get the leaves and twigs. Lions and leopards lying in the shade. Impala’s unaware that they are being watched and measured for supper or dinner. Hyenas and wild dogs, rhinos, birds of all species from owls, vultures to songbirds. That morning call to watch the early risers is compensated by a late afternoon drive to see what happens in the twilight of the evening and after dark.
 
You will see the Big Five. The Lion, Leopard, Elephant, Buffalo and Rhinoceros that are elegant in their stature and confidence, but look at the Ugly Five, The Warthog, Vulture, Wildebeest, Marabou Stork, Hyena. They have a beauty all of their own, moving in a motion that has you looking and wondering if they are going somewhere or leaving from a crime scene. It’s true the Creator overlooked them in colour or gracefulness but they do justify their existence in cleaning up the leftovers, from deaths either natural or kills for survival, which prevents any harm that might occur should they not be there.
 
After 3 nights at Kapama Lodge we move to Victoria Falls in Zimbabwe. From the hotel grounds you can hear the soothing sound of the water falls. I think back to my school days and the phrase “Doctor Livingstone I presume” comes to mind. David Livingstone was a Scottish explorer, he married Mary Moffat, whose family was a very devout Christian missionaries. He joined the London missionary society and worked in Africa, he was a strong supporter of the abolition of slavery. Britain had done so in 1833. As an explorer his obsession was to discover the source of the River Nile, believing that if he had the recognition of achieving something among his peers they would listen when he spoke. He was a very well known explorer. Having travelled across Africa from East to West. Arriving in Zimbabwe in 1855 he was the first European to witness the magnificent Falls. He named the incredible sight after his British sovereign monarch at the time, Queen Victoria. The Falls are among the seven natural wonders of the world. The Zambezi River divides the two countries of Zambia and Zimbabwe. It travels through six nations for over 2,700 Km. Over the next few years there were some reported sightings of Livingstone, in 1866 it’s known that he set off for the River Nile, then nothing, there were those who believed he had died.
 
In 1871 the New York Herald employed the explorer Henry Stanley to lead an expedition to Africa to find David Livingstone. He had a party of 100 porters with him. For six months the party was ravaged by diseases of one kind or another. Having reached Tanzania and 700 miles of a journey they heard stories of a white man in a local village. Stanley strolled into the village dressed as best he could. Livingstone was not in the best of health yet Stanley extended his hand and asked the now famous question, “Dr. Livingstone, I presume?” I presume Livingstone answered in the affirmative. He refused to travel back with the rescuers, and died in 1873.
 
A boat cruise on the Zambezi River as the evening sun begins to set, having watched herds of buffalo, and elephants down by the river with prides of lions eagerly watching for a moment where a small mistake might mean a wholesome meal. Crocodiles are in the water close by also anxiously awaiting their quota. Baby elephants in the care of mature adults are a wonderful sight to behold in the circle of life. Birds sitting on the backs of these animals are welcomed as they pick at the ticks who think they’re prospecting for gold. The sun has set and dinner is served as the water laps the boat to the tranquil beat of a distant bongo drum.
 
The Victoria Rain Forest is the only place in the world where it rains every single day of the year. From September to December visitors can actually swim to the edge of the Falls at the Devil’s Pool, not to be attempted without an escorted guide. When viewing the Falls you have an accompanying guide who will take you through the walk pointing out the various gorges, rock formations, evidence of volcanic eruptions, answering questions in connection with the rain forest and other details. The walk is done at a leisurely pace and takes about one hour and 30 minutes.
 
Away from the Falls there is an elephant sanctuary where orphaned or injured elephants are treated and nursed back to health. The operators of this sanctuary will then take the animals to a nearby half-house (figuratively speaking) to observe if they can return to the wild. The experience of this visit brings you up close and personal with the animals. Even though these elephants are familiar with people they are still wild creatures and have got to be treated with respect and care.
 
Leaving the town of Victoria Falls we cross from Zimbabwe to Botswana and the Chobe Game Lodge. The Chobe River creates the border between Botswana and Namibia, being a landlocked country, South Africa, Zambia and Zimbabwe borders it as well. 
 

Chobe Lodge offers game activities up to three times a day, on the river and on jeeps. The herds of elephants in Botswana number 80,000 which are very plentiful in the Chobe National Park. Buffalo herds are an amazing sight when you’re on the river as thousands graze on the plains. Wildebeests, zebras and impalas are more than plentiful. Botswana is remarkable for the amount of prides of lions to be seen, this is understandable judging by the size of herds of big game to choose from. 
 
A troop of Baboons are a delightful encounter on a drive, morning or evening. Mothers carrying their babies, the Alpha Male protects the female and the young from predators including other males who are willing to compete to remove this leader.

Jackals, Wild Dogs, Hyenas, Leopards and lions are all ready to eat any of the carnivores roaming the plains but while they attack and kill each other they will not consume that meat, it’s too tough. 
 
Departing Botswana to Johannesburg and flying back through Amsterdam to Toronto. Your adrenaline is still high. An invasion of the mind after such an experience is more than understandable. 
 

 

Gems of Ireland Signature Tour 2025

Location: 
Ireland
Entry By: 
Joe F

Come share our popular trip to Ireland, where every day is a surprise. There are no strangers here, only friends you have never met. This island perched on the edge of Europe has been an attraction since time immemorial. 

Travellers and explorers, wondering if they continued west would they fall off the edge of the world. From Stone Age, Bronze and Iron Age to Celts, Vikings, Normans, Anglo-Normans and British. They all seemed to want a slice of the pie, except the Romans. They decided it was too cold and described the place as Hibernia, the land of eternal winter.

 

Listen to the folklore, stories of fairy tales, leprechauns, Druids and Banshees, History dating back thousands of years, as can be witnessed in the megalithic tombs at Newgrange, Co. Meath associated with the Winter Solstice or Poulnabrone dolmen, Co. Clare. Visit the Hill of Tara, the seat of the High Kings of Ireland and the celebration by the Druids of the Summer Solstice. 

 

This tour takes you to Northern Ireland where you see the Titanic Visitors Centre in Belfast as we tour this iconic city. The Giants Causeway in Antrim is considered one of the Seven Wonders of the World. An amazing experience in Omagh Co. Tyrone is the American Folk Museum which gives a very detailed view of the history of migration from that particular region. Thomas Mellon and his family moved to Pennsylvania in the 1800s and became a very successful American businessman. He was involved in founding the Mellon Banking Company, a member of the judiciary, a lawyer, in later life he became involved in the coal mining and steel industry, accumulating a very healthy bank balance. The folk park in Co. Tyrone is a monument to the family’s ancestors.

 

Driving on the western side of the island is sheer joy, gazing out onto the Atlantic Ocean with the views of cliffs disappearing into crashing waves of foaming, raging waters. Beautiful beaches and isolated villages, sheep ignoring your presence, cows relaxing in green pastures.

 

A trip to the Aran Islands out in Galway Bay is the essence of nostalgia. The three islands cover about 40 square kilometres in total. The Atlantic storms that have swept across these islands over millennia have left an incredible amount of stone and rock in their wake. The three islands are a composition of limestone deposits that are typical of this area. Farmers living on the islands for generations began to create land. Building dry stone walls to divide portions of land, both for crop rotation or animal husbandry, ownership of property was defined then taking seaweed from the shoreline and spreading it over the sheet of rock, seeds were spread on top, some grasses eventually began to grow, root crops were planted, e.g potatoes, turnips, carrots, cabbages etc. These did not mature to anything worth eating but they did turn into fertilizer and eventually a degree of soil began to develop. Today the dry stone walls collectively measure approximately 2,500 kilometres, which were the solution to a tricky problem that has been solved over generations of islanders. The stone walls are about 4 - 6 feet in height. The pattern of these dry stone walls are a remarkable feature of the Irish landscape and can be seen in many parts of the western counties. It was a labour intensive operation and a piece of artwork to get each stone interlocking without mortar or concrete, gaps in the walls allow wind to pass through. The design of the walls ensures that even after centuries exposed to extreme weather conditions, Atlantic storms, gale force winds these examples of skill and know-how are in existence to this day relatively intact. Watch the movie from bygone days “The Man of Aran” by Robert Flaherty, which shows the process of how the islanders created arable land. These men were also fishermen, watch “Riders to the Sea”, a play by John Millington Synge. Today, the numbers of visitors to the islands are sufficient to sustain the island’s population and indeed is contributing to the emigration from the island somewhat. Working from home is great for people in remote areas.

 

Peat bogs or turf covered in sweet mountain thyme and beautiful purple heather in the glow of a September afternoon add that feeling of peace and tranquility. A touch of Autumn is in the air as the foliage surrenders to the elements. Spend an evening in a local restaurant or bar where the background music serenades your enjoyment of the local cuisine. To experience the music of a bar or pub you’ll be always welcome, whether you partake in an alcoholic drink or not. 

 

The cities and towns of Ireland are much more diverse than modern cities. The height of the buildings are restricted and therefore the urban areas spread out resulting in very heavy traffic mornings and evenings particularly in the larger cities and towns. 

 

Sporting events such as Gaelic football and hurling are amateur sports that are supported throughout the country. Rugby and soccer have their fans who can be seen at all levels. Horse racing takes place in every county, there are no casinos but betting shops will be found in all towns big and small. Entertainment and adventure has no boundaries, walking, hiking, biking, boating, horseback riding and others are all available.

 

Join us for that trip that will end up by you asking yourself why have I not been here before or waiting to return home to tell your friends, family and colleagues what’s in Ireland to make it feel like home.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Tulips from Amsterdam

Location: 
Amsterdam, Netherlands
Entry By: 
Joe F.

The Netherlands has a history of growing tulips since they were first introduced here from Turkey in the 16th century. The flowers originated in Central Asia and were cultivated in Iran (Persia) in the 10th century. Carolus Clusius the famous French botanist began to cultivate plants such as tulip, potato and turnip from various parts of the world. 

His expertise in the cultivation of tulips in the Roman emperor’s garden in Vienna brought him to the attention of The Dutch Botanical Gardens. His publications of a number of books and articles on the bulbs and flowers led to what was to become known as ‘Tulipmania’. This was the rage of the 1600s so much so that botanists were in high demand in palaces, manor houses, universities, and noble residences. Tulips grew (pardon the pun) to become more valuable than gold and 10 times more than a commoner’s annual wage. A strain of tulip started to appear, this was red with distinctive white streaks on the petals. It wasn’t known for centuries afterwards that in fact this was a virus that was causing an infection in the petals. The virus was ‘Tulip Breaking Virus’ known today as TBV. The demand for tulip bulbs steadily increased from the start of the 1600s. As word spread the value increased and more people wanted to get involved. The demand in 1636 skyrocketed, some varieties like the ‘Semper Augustus’ were costing $10,000 guilders, the price of a house in Amsterdam. The craze lasted one year and in what today would be classed as a ‘Boom to Bust’ no one could afford the astronomical prices. The demand fell or people got a grip of themselves. 

The Netherlands today is the largest exporter of tulips worldwide, that figure is 2 billion annually, 77% of all flower bulbs come from the Netherlands and seedlings account for $3.8 billion in exports. The country is remarkably flat with the highest elevation of only 70 meters. As a result it has a very favourable climate, fertile soil and innovative greenhouse technology that contributes to its tremendous production capacity. 

The Flower Shop of the World. Keukenhof Tulip Gardens.

The flower park consists of 32 hectares of gardens, (that’s 80 acres approximately), water features, pathways and flowers of every description imaginable. Every year 7 million flower bulbs are planted by hand in the autumn, to flower in the spring. The method of planting is unique. For a colourful garden to stay pretty for 8 weeks you have to have different species of flowers maturing every few weeks, hearing the methods of sowing is a 3 year course in horticulture, in one day. 800 different varieties of tulips are on display. Known as the ‘Garden of Europe,’ it’s one of the world’s largest flower gardens. While tulips are the dominant flower you’ll see hyacinths, daffodils, lilies, roses, irises and carnations. The garden festival starts the third week of March and continues for 8 weeks ending on the third week of May. There are roughly about 25,000 visitors a day during the festival but when you consider the size of the park it’s a very comfortable venue even with that volume of people.

The Keukenhof estate dates back to the 15th century. In 1640 a castle was built and records show that the estate had over 200 hectares. In 1857 the castle gardens were redesigned. In 1949, 20 of the Netherlands top growers and exporters got together and opened the estate to exhibit spring flowering bulbs. The birth of the world’s most beautiful flower and bulb exhibitions was in 1950, apart from the Covid-19 pandemic the gardens have been opened continuously since, and looking forward to celebrating 75 years of bloom and bliss in 2025.

Say it with Flowers. The language of flowers, symbols and meanings.

Red Tulips, the Romantic type, their deep red hue evokes feelings of passion, love and lust. Making them popular for new young couples.

Orange ones convey a sense of understanding and appreciation between two people in a relationship. Both are physically and spiritually connected.

If you’ve a liking for Yellow you display happiness, cheerfulness and hope. The sunshine of your smile. Plant yellow tulips in your front garden for good luck and prosperity.

Purple tulips, a sign of wealth. Queen Elizabeth I forbade everyone except the Royal Family from wearing purple.

White tulips, they are a token of sympathy, sorrow or condolences.

If you are presenting Pink tulips, you are congratulating someone for the birth of a baby, maybe on getting a job or a promotion.

Blue Tulips are the rarest of colours for these bulbs. They convey calmness and serenity. Blue is the most difficult of colours to achieve in flowers.

In the Netherlands the latest figures for 2023 is that $3.5 billion worth of fruit and vegetables were exported, with the flowers, bulbs and seedlings amounting to $11.0 billion. Agriculture, horticulture and the food sector employs 636,000 or 9% of the Dutch workforce, this includes all of the supporting industries that’s involved.

Canada and the Netherlands have close ties with each other. When WWII broke out the Dutch Royal family fled to England where they were treated as ‘the government in exile.’ In 1940 the Queen sent her heir Her Royal Highness Princess Juliana and daughters to Canada. Arriving in Halifax, Nova Scotia in June, they later settled in Ottawa. In 1943 Princess Margriet was born to Princess Juliana and Prince Bernard. When the war ended and the Royal family returned to the Netherlands, as a show of gratitude each year 10,000 tulips are sent to Ottawa, a bed of pink and purple tulips was developed in the Civil Campus of the Ottawa Maternity Hospital where the Princess was born and another was planted in the Commissioners Park. The tulips are still sent to this day. On occasions when the Dutch government are invited to Canada it’s usually Princess Margriet who does the honours, after all she is the only royal blood to have been born here. After the D-Day landings in France on June 6th 1944 the Canadian and Allied forces moved northwards through France, Belgium and eventually the Netherlands which was liberated in April and May 1945. The Dutch people owe a tremendous debt of gratitude to the Canadian army and the Canadian nation. From 1947 to 1954 more than 80,000 Dutch citizens migrated to Canada, these were mostly farmers who moved to Southern Ontario and Alberta. Their ancestors are still farming here today. 

 

 

 

 

 

Quintessential Nationality of Winemaking People in France

Location: 
Bordeaux, France
Entry By: 
Joe F

The Wine Geese region of Bordeaux in France derives its name from the Wild Geese migration of soldiers and landowners who fled Ireland for France after the Battle of the Boyne in 1690. It’s a mind blowing phenomena that the battle was fought in Ireland, between the Catholic King James II of England and his son-in-law the victorious Protestant Dutch Prince, William of Orange. 

After the battle had ended, 14,000 Jacobite soldiers and supporters fled to Europe, joining armies in Spain, Italy, Austria and France. Others decided to leave the military lifestyle behind and experiment with other avenues of employment to recuperate some of their previous wealth they had forfeited through land, taxes and property that was confiscated with being on the vanquished side. There were opportunities a plenty for these adventurers. Flourishing as merchants, traders, and farmers that expanded into owners of estates, that developed into vineyards of notoriety, particularly in the Bordeaux region. These people were to become the Quintessential Irish ‘in exile’. “It had long come to my attention that people of accomplishment rarely sat back and let things happen. They went out and happen to things”. 

In the late 17th century, Irish Catholics represented 75% of the population, an oppressed people by a combination of wars, religious persecution and loss of property. Meanwhile the English parliament passed a series of laws protecting English landowners and farmers against cheaper cattle and wool that hurt Irish Protestant landowners. As a result there was few opportunities in Ireland for ambitious second or third sons whether Catholic or Protestant, so for political, religious or economic reasons they were being pushed out of Ireland. They settled in Spain, France, Belgium and England, the largest colony of 280 families had settled in the Bordeaux region of France. One of the amazing facts about the families that settled in Europe, they were of different backgrounds religiously. While the communities in Bordeaux were both Protestant and Catholic the relationships were businesslike and friendly. Confessional differences played very little role, but along the marriage lines these were extremely rare, otherwise the communities were united. 

An island that’s 51.5° to 56.5° N latitude would not have a suitable temperature for growing grapes therefore the Irish would have no knowledge of cultivating or harvesting grapes. Necessity is the mother of invention and so these people learned very quickly the methods of distilling wine. What was in it for France to have the Irish buying land in their country, the answer was, Irish salted beef, they needed it for provision for the Navy, Marine ships, and to further export it to French colonies in the Caribbean and Polynesian islands. For the Irish, the opportunity to have something that’s not in Ireland was vineyards and the production of wine. As in any businesses that one starts, you have to have a market and there it was right next door, England. The British Empire was expanding, the manifest of the ships cargo always had a sizeable number of barrels of wine, provided by the Irish wine producers from France. Even though Britain and Ireland had the same monarchy, taxation and tariffs were much different, the importation tax on wine from France to England was prohibitive for the majority of people. The French winemakers remained steadfast in their policy of producing fine wines, especially as they had perfected the art of aging wines from 3 to 7 years, thereby eliminating the need to blend different varieties, some of poorer quality. This policy has seen the oldest winery in France still in the hands of the same family since 1722 when Thomas Barton the quintessential Irishman purchased the Chateau Leoville Barton in the Bordeaux region, generations afterwards the wines are exported to 130 countries.

Shortly after the American War of Independence, Thomas Jefferson was the American ambassador to France and he visited Bordeaux, remarking afterwards about the amount of Irish names that were prominent in the wine business, Barton, Foster, Lynch, Kirwan, Clarke, Dillon, Phelan, and others. Jefferson became president of the USA later.

If we are looking for another quintessential Irishman however we need to focus on the Cork born Richard Hennessy whose legacy is the most recognized today. A second son of the landed gentry, he wasn’t going to inherit the estate. He joined the French army and had a checkered career there, foregoing this livelihood he started in the drinks industry. His son joined him and together their company matured into the famous Hennessy Cognac brand that accounts for 40% of brandy sales globally. Today the company is partially owned by the drinks company Diageo.

Don’t let me hear you talking about ‘the good old days’ in Bordeaux. Did you know that in 1603 a werewolf was reported to roam the streets, and in 1609 a rumour was ‘ignited’ that a witch was seen by someone. When the witch wasn’t found the local constabulary came to the logical conclusion that in fact the woman who declared that she seen a witch, was herself possessed by a demon and she was the guilty party. Having been tortured until she confessed she was duly burned at the stake, and all this happened before the winemaking business became as popular as it is today. A parliament appointee de Lancre took the sightings of witches to heart and had as many as 80 women put to death. The stories got worse of course after the French Revolution with people going around with their heads under their arms after a visit to the guillotine. Then there’s the story of the dragon in tower, I could go on of course, but no. Join us on a trip to Bordeaux and let these legends be brought to life.

 

 

 

 

 

The Antarctic Ocean and Continent. The Last Wilderness.

Location: 
Antarctica
Entry By: 
Joe F.

When visiting the Antarctic, you’re in fact in the ‘Last Wilderness’, an area of incredible beauty, unspoiled landscapes, and wildlife that only dreams are made of. Conservationists are playing a huge role in the protection of the ocean, the whales, penguins, seals, seabirds, the krill and the single cell algae that’s the stable diet for sea life, the various species of whales are humpback, killer, and blue whales. 

These migrate to Hawaii and other winter breeding grounds in the tropics and subtropics to give birth to their calves, the waters are more shallow and warmer, providing a safe and protected environment to nurture their young. 

Studying geography in my school days I was always fascinated by the place name ‘Tierra del Fuego’ the southernmost tip of South America, nicknamed the ‘End of the World’. The flight from Toronto takes you to São Paulo, Brazil. After a short stop then it’s on to Buenos Aires, Spanish for “fair winds” or “good airs” the capital of Argentina that’s situated on the shore of Rio de La Plata. An opportunity of staying here for a night or two would not be wasted. You’re in a city that’s recovering from years of economic stagnation. This is a vibrant city with a population of 15 million people. The city has matured through one financial crisis after another, the International Monetary Fund had to rescue them from figures of inflation that were at 100% at one stage. 

Spending a day in the city that’s alive with activity, students always bring life into an area as do the office staff that are employed in the banking, financial services industry, the technology sector, and so many other employment areas throughout the city. Visit the restaurants, cafes, bars, nightclubs, and bistros that have menus to suit all palates. Going through the galleries and museums telling the history of the city and the nation, listen to the music steal through your mind ‘Don’t Cry for me Argentina’ taking you back to the story of Eva Peron, the wife of the president Juan, the revered First Lady who championed workers rights, support for the poor and the downtrodden, the rights of women in politics and in education. She died way too prematurely at the tender age of 33 years. In the movie Evita, Madonna played the leading role.

Flying into Ushuaia, there’s a shuttle bus to transfer passengers to the cruise ship. On board instructions and introductions are carried out by staff members. Cruising to the last of the Seven continents, one cannot but be transported back to those explorers and adventurers that have gone before us. James Cooke crossed the Antarctic Circle in 1773, the Magellan Straits, Sir Francis Drake who circumnavigated the world in 1577-80, Wendell Sea and Ross Sea. Two days into the cruise and we arrive at the Drake Passage and an awesome body of water to go across. 

The ship uses an innovative hydro-jet propulsion system to allow the purpose-built World Traveller ship to maintain location without the need to drop anchor. This allows you to get closer to the environment and wildlife without disturbing their habitat. We transfer to the zodiacs, small rubber boats that can get up close and personal to the shore. Here is where the action is happening, penguins with their chicks, protecting them and then baling away from them, into the water like a torpedo in search of food. There are seals basking on the beaches, birds trying to get their share of the spoils. Whichever of the species that are there we are cautious not to disturb or distract them in any way from their activities. Their lives are precious and we have a duty as visitors to protect the environment and everything associated with that.

Lectures on board the ships, tells us about the ‘Heroic Age of Antarctic Exploration’, the end of the 1800s and beginning of the 1900s saw a terrific upsurge of exploration in Antarctica. The challenge was, who would reach the South Pole first? Men like the British seaman Robert Falcon Scott, Ernest Shackleton, Thomas Crean, Roald Amundsen and Sir Edmund Hillary. The stories of these explorers will capture the imagination. The world’s last frontier, that moment when for a person or a nation that flag or marker says I am the first person to have arrived here. You’ll hear the tales of ships stranded in ice, starvation and lives lost. The greatest race of all in my opinion is that of Amundsen the Norwegian and Scott the English man. Different methods and modes of transportation were used. Scott brought ponies, dogs and two tractors. He had a team of about 90 people, Scott’s expedition was financed by the British government , the Admiralty and others, there were scientists, teachers, botanists, and tradesmen. Amundsen took a smaller party, using dogs only. He had with him the Norwegian champion skier who proved to be the ace in the hold. Having arrived at the final camp before the South Pole, Amundsen and five others went on with the dogs and three sleighs. Bjaaland the skier was invaluable as a team member, he trimmed the sleighs down to the thinnest for the purpose of weight. With the skier out in front the dogs had a target and a leader to follow. Amundsen and his team were the first people to reach the South Pole in December 1911. The expedition team made it back safely to their base and to Norway having left supplies for Scott and his team. Scott and his team did arrive at the South Pole a month after Amundsen in January 1912. Sadly on their return back to base camp they all perished.

The story of Ernest Shackleton and his ship the Endurance with a crew of 28 has been published in several publications. Films have been made of how their ship got stuck on an ice bank, for days they struggled to get free. As the ship groaned and twisted in the grasp of the sea ice, the sailors emptied whatever they could onto the packed ice. Finally when the vessel surrendered to the crushing, freezing ice they watched the ship crack and deliver its fractured remains over the frozen snow or swallowed it into the ocean, the crew just watched in awe for over a period of months as this took place. Shackleton, Crean, and Mosley the ship’s captain had left the area to find help, crossing South Georgia they reached the Norwegian whaling village. After 497 days the crew who had set up shelters and living quarters beside their ruined ship were rescued.

As you cruise through the ice and floating glaciers and land on the continent of Antarctica you will notice that there are mountains and hills there. The highest peak is Mount Vinson, it rises to 4,892 metres. Since 1966 approximately 1,200 people have climbed it. Depending how quickly one acclimatized to the conditions it takes 5 - 9 days to complete the climb. 

What’s the difference between the Arctic and the Antarctic, the Arctic is an Ocean while the Antarctic is a Continent. Both have magnetic fields, the inclination of the Earth’s field is 90° downwards at the north magnetic field and 90° upwards at the south magnetic field. 

Even though we all know that penguins love the cold there have never been any found in the Arctic. At the Antarctic there are an estimated 44,000,000 penguins, that’s a lot of poop on a white background, a trivia question true or false, can penguin poop be seen from outer space. Wait for a drum roll, Yes it Can.

In 1959 the Antarctic Treaty was signed by twelve countries, banning any military activities in the region. The area is preserved for the fish and sea mammals that are found there plus the penguins, seals and birds. Scientists, botanists, geologists, biologists, mathematicians and international naval personnel have a right to inspect what’s going on. Numbers are curtailed when visiting Antarctica, only one ship can visit a site at any one time. Vessels with more than 500 passengers shall not make landings in Antarctica. A maximum of 100 passengers may be ashore at any one time.

For peace and tranquility, an area that’s untouched, protected and preserved, heavenly and out worldly there are few to compare.

 

 

 

 

 

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